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Here's your chance! Each month, Mary Lou answers your fashion, wardrobe, and accessorizing questions. If you have something that you need to know, ask away! If your question is chosen, you'll receive a complimentary Organization By Design Survival Kit. What have you got to lose?!
For February, 2000:
Q: I'm a Californian (so my fashion tastes may be a little casual). I'll be traveling to Europe to speak to some executive level folks from some important companies (Akin to the US Fortune 500).
I know the classic answer of "use suits (i.e. jacket/skirt or jacket/pants) in basic colors," but I'd like a little more detail. Any ideas about European fashion?
A: I assume you'll be addressing coed audiences in Europe, and therefore I strongly suggest you stick with a traditional business look - skirted or panted suit. Your trust and credibility is instantly enhanced with a jacket, and by paying attention to these additional style elements, your message will be even more powerful:
Line - To sharpen your visual resume, strive for a vertical as opposed to a horizontal line. This is best achieved with monochromatic (all one color from shoulder to hem) suiting. Double-breasted suiting isn't as powerful in presentations because it often creates a strong horizontal line and can call attention to a person's middle. It's much easier to pay attention to what someone is saying when the eye is drawn up to the face naturally. Pinstripe suits are another excellent way to create a flattering line.
Proportion - There is no substitute for a good fit. Clothing that is too big or too small will diminish both you and your message. Hems and sleeves should be altered to their most flattering length. Any length skirt that is longer than two inches above your knee sets a business tone as long as it is cut at a flattering point. For example, if you're not confident with your knees, have the skirt hemmed to just below the knee or even longer. A-line cuts often create a horizontal line. Tapered - following the natural line of the leg - is a better business style.
Balance -Make sure all the textures and fabrics match up. If you wear heavy opaque tights with a silk blouse, for instance, you can appear bottom heavy because the silk appears much lighter. The eye of your audience is delicate. It wants to size you up, not be cluttered or distracted and be instantly focused on what you're saying. Dangling earrings and long necklaces can also be distracting for an audience, especially when you are speaking for long periods of time.
Don't confuse this advice with being too conservative or boring. Darker suiting is still most appropriate in Europe, but let them know you're comfortable with your femininity and American style by introducing color with scarves and blouses. Colors such as lilac, light blue and lemon are cheerful and give black, navy and gray modern appeal. I sometimes advise clients to choose mock turtlenecks (in silk or wool blends) instead of blouses because they're easy to pack and aren't as high maintenance (or low cut!) as blouses sometimes can be.
Europeans think quality over quantity so a few good suits with a fresh blouse or sweater each day is a smart (and light!) way to travel.