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Each month, Mary Lou answers (and we post!) a fashion question from one of our site visitors. If you have something you want to know to help pull together your wardrobe with style and confidence, ask away!
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Bookmark this page and return back soon to see if your question has been answered!
For January, 2004:
Q: Could you tell me what sort of suit jacket to buy? I am a petite woman with fairly broad shoulders for my height and a wide ribcage. I have small hips, small breasts, and not much of a waist by comparison. I have tended to go for two-button jackets with a deep V-front, to create the illusion of a waist, but this ends up showing off my non-chest. What should I be doing instead?
A: First, definitely buy your jackets in the petite department. With your proportions, you'll probably still have to try a lot of jackets on and invest in alterations to get a style that is flattering, but at least you'll have a better chance of perfecting the fit when you start in the right department.
You always fit from the shoulder first when purchasing a jacket. You want your shoulders to line up with your hips for the best silhouette. A shoulder that is too broad will create a strong horizontal line at your face and make you appear top heavy. As a petite, try to create vertical lines in your outfits as opposed to horizontal lines. It's more slimming and less distracting.
Three button jackets can elongate your frame even more than two buttons. With a small chest, it's a better strategy. Be sure to buy jackets with good seams at or near the bust line if you need that area to be pulled in more. A skilled tailor can make a good fitting jacket look truly great when they have the right seems to work with.
Another trick when selecting a jacket for someone with your proportions is to wear a jacket that hits mid-thigh — Typically hanging no longer than the bottom of your fingers when you hands are hanging at your side. Shorter or longer can make you look a bit out of proportion.
Once you find a brand that fits, stay loyal! Half the battle is finding designers who can cut for your unique proportions.