Ask Mary Lou

Each month, Mary Lou answers (and we post!) a fashion question from one of our site visitors. If you have something you want to know to help pull together your wardrobe with style and confidence, ask away!

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For November 2008:

Q: How do I stay warm in the bitterly cold winter without wearing a coat that makes me look frumpy? I still want to express my professional style, any ideas?

A: I feel your pain in wanting to look stylish, while staying bundled up. Now is definitely the time to act, before coat selections get picked over. Here are five tips to help you navigate the winter coat racks this season:

#1 Think Fabric. All wool coats are not created equally. Yes, 100% cashmere coats are king, but even a small percentage of cashmere blended with other wools will give a coat more luxury and longevity. Avoid a large percentage of nylon blended with wool. The nylon (a man made fabric) can start showing through the wool in just a few seasons, making it look worn and old. Nylon in wool also contributes to that annoying "scratchy" and "stiff" feel.

#2 Consider Length & Shape. A coat that falls from mid-thigh to the knee tends to be the most versatile length, as it can work over suits, pants and skirts. On women, full-length coats that aren't fitted at the waist can look frumpy. Any length coat with a shaped waist will typically flatter both petite and full figures. For men and women, a trench coat with a zip or button out lining can work in all seasons and climates and might be the only coat you need!

#3 Study the Details. While sleeves should cover your wrist bone, they should not wander too far down your hand. In order to be useful, pockets should not be too low or too high. In addition, you don't want pockets to appear in places that don't work with your figure. Buttons should be sewn on tightly and extras provided. If you love the way a coat fits but don't like the buttons, they can be easily replaced.

#4 Punch It Up. Hats, scarves and gloves give basic outerwear signature style. If your coat closet tends to be full of dark neutral colors, add some brighter coat accessories to beat the cold weather doldrums. Women, cobalt blue, fuchsia and bright red look especially crisp and fresh in the winter months and can do wonders for your psyche. Men, hats, gloves and scarves should not be an afterthought. Don’t wear overly casual winter accessories with professional coats.

#5 Take it for a Test Drive. Finally, before purchasing a coat, try it on wearing what you plan to wear under it. You'll also want to button or zip it up and hug yourself to ensure it fits properly. "Steering wheel" and "jump rope" tests (act out both movements while in the coat to ensure mobility) are also good indicators of fit.