Suiting Up!

By Mary Lou Andre
President, Organization By Design, Inc. & Editor, dressingwell.com

This year, the hottest news in fashion is the return to "suiting up,” with a particular emphasis on skirted suit styles. The fashion industry is thrilled, as a return to more dressy looks promises to spike sales at the cash register.

Whether the fashion trend is "to suit" or "not to suit", we have always felt that there is room in a professional wardrobe — and often in the wardrobes of those who don't work outside the home — for at least one or two suits and jackets that can be dressed up or down depending on your day's activities.

A suit and jacket almost always set a business tone and are respectful garments to wear when you are meeting with clients and associates. Jackets are also ideal layering pieces for women who want to create appropriate business and social boundaries with others or want to feel more confident with less than perfect figures.

So how do you choose suits and jackets that are right for you? Start with the proper fit.

• To train your eye to truly understand line and proportion as they relate to dress, visit your closet and slip on a black top and black bottom. This silhouette is an ideal neutral base to help you analyze the rest of your wardrobe.

• Next, try on all your jackets (including those that go with suits) to determine if you need to update or part with them. Shoulders should line up with your hips and the length typically should not extend past the base of your finger tips, unless an extended length jacket is part of a fashion look such as the three quarter length suit jackets being shown by many designers this season.

• In addition to being outdated, oversized shoulder pads create a strong horizontal line — as opposed to a more flattering vertical line — next to your face, which can overpower many frames. Most jackets that are too long can make you look out of proportion. A good tailor can slim shoulders and shorten the length of a jacket, but it's not an inexpensive venture. Sometimes it makes more sense to put the money into a fresh new garment.

• It's also important to consider the fabrications of the suits and jackets in your closet. If you travel to different climates all year long, you might want to build a wardrobe consisting entirely of lightweight wools and/or microfiber suiting and separates. If you would like to take advantage of the layering and textured trend that is currently in style, these slimmer fabrics will also serve you well.

• Next, look at all the details on the jacket of the suit. Are the collars or pockets too big for your proportions? Are the buttons dated or cheap? Does the color compliment your personality and skin tone? All of these style elements can either enhance or detract from your personal presence.

• Of course the bottom half of the suit and/or the pants and skirts you team up with a jacket also have to work for your figure and lifestyle. Pantsuits for women have become appropriate in just about every profession and are safe bets when a business or social invitation this time of year suggests you dress "casual." A closet full of skirted suits may be obsolete for your lifestyle. Play "tough love" with all your clothes to make room for clothes that best reflect your personality, figure and lifestyle.

If you decide to purchase a few new suits and/or jackets this fall, here are some handy tips:

• If being on trend is important to you, look for pantsuits with a small (i.e. notched) collar jacket and flat front pant. The leg of the most current pantsuits this season is either very slim or boot-legged. Much of the modern suiting available this season has a percentage of lycra or spandex added to the fabric. In addition, many fashion-forward suits sport a three quarter length sleeve.

• Skirted suits are also back in style. While a short skirt, especially worn with spiked heels, is suddenly dated and old-fashioned, a knee-grazing skirt is quite modern again. When designed with today's sophisticated stretch fabrics, this new length is lean, comfortable and, sometimes, sexy. Some styles fall straight just below the knee while others form an A-line just under the knee.

• Boucle suiting is back in vogue and allows you to conservatively participate in the textured trend of the moment. Boucle fabric is woven from looped yarn which gives it a highly napped surface. Modern boucle fabrics are not quite as heavy as those you might already have in your closet, making them more comfortable (and more slimming!) to wear.

• A suit with a detachable collar is a great option for those of you who want to try some faux fur on the collar of a suit but don't necessarily want to commit long term to the trend. This concept isn't just limited to fur. Satin and beaded collars can work the same way, giving you office-to-evening versatility.

© 2006 Organization By Design, Inc. / Wardrobe Management & Fashion Consulting
No portion of this article can be used without permission.
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