Mary Lou Andre

Fashion Q & A: Pilling Fabrics Q: I recently updated my work wardrobe for winter with several knit pieces in bright colors from Banana Republic. They label says Italian merino (my all-time favorite sweater fabric!) but upon more carefully reading the label, I see that the merino wool is blended with rayon and polyester as well. I have noticed that after a few wearings, the fabric is starting to pill under the arms and where my bag rubs on it. Since I have had not very much success with sweater stones and pill remover devices, I’m wondering what your advice is on pilling fabrics? Many thanks in advance for your reply. A: There definitely has been a drop in quality of fabric over the past few years so you are wise to read the fabric care label carefully. For instance, there is a reason why 100% cashmere is usually more expensive. It has not been mixed with less expensive fibers and therefore holds up better when properly cared for. Less expensive wools (ie merino) are not as luxurious. When you add synthetic blends (like polyester), they tend to be softer and actually hold their color better, attracting many consumers to them. They often are less durable with synthetic additions to them. I think this is what you are experiencing with the Banana brand. No matter where they get their wool sweaters, we tell our clients to dry clean these pieces for at least the first year, even if the tag says hand and machine washing is okay. After that, if they want to hand wash an item, we suggest they turn the items inside out, place them in a zippered lingerie bag, wash on the gentle cycle and then lay flat to dry. Be sure to properly understand your clothing labels. “Dry Clean Only” means just that, but “Dry Clean” often means you can hand wash too. For the record, I only dry clean my sweaters. If I have questions about any garment, I consult with my good friends at Anton’s Cleaners before I do anything! As a professional, I suggest you establish a two-way dialog with your cleaners too!

Fashion Q & A: Nail Polish for the Office Q: What color nail polish is appropriate for the office? I tend to prefer dark shades, like a classic red. However, I recently found a very dark color that I love, but I wonder if it’s ok? It’s from OPI and it’s called Lincoln Park After Dark (it’s referred to as a midnight purple.) I would even say it comes out little darker (closer to black) than how it seems in this picture. Is this ok? A: Overly dark nail polish shades are a distraction in most work places. The OPI color Lincoln Park After Dark falls into this category. Save this color for vacation, special events and date nights! We advise our corporate clients to choose pale neutral shades that are more in keeping with a professional look. French manicures are also work well in a corporate environment. If you like darker colors look for a soft red or soft brown. Your nail color should be a part of your overall polished look and not the thing that stands out in a flashy manner.

Fashion Q & A: Casual Pants for Work Q: In the warmer months, my company’s dress code allows for more casual attire. Even though jeans and capris are allowed from Memorial Day to Labor Day, I think they’re too casual and don’t plan to wear them. Do you have any insights into what makes certain casual pant choices too casual for the office? A: Many of our private clients who work outside the home have a healthy selection of casual pants in their wardrobes. Many of them report getting ready for work and staring at them, wondering if they can (or should!) wear them on the job. The following guide will help you decide whether to slip on casual pants or whether to leave them at home when dressing for work. Remember, common sense prevails. Check with your HR department if you need some more clarification about how any of these fabrics and styles fit into your particular business culture. Jeans: Jeans have come a long way in the century-and-a-half since Levi Strauss secured the pockets of his “waist overalls” and sold them from his San Francisco dry goods store. These days, jeans come in a plethora of cuts, colors and styles, and are the garment of choice for a variety of casual situations. In many industries, jeans, in any color, remain inappropriate for most business situations. The problem is that while some folks look great in them and they understand the importance of making sure they are presented professionally, others will always look sloppy and, well, too casual in them. Also, you have no control over how customers and colleagues view jeans. If your office does allow jeans, be smart about how you present yourself in them. Khakis: With the casualization of the American workforce over the past decade, khaki pants are not just worn in the warmer months anymore. In fact, entire industries claim them as their unofficial “uniform” all year round. If you choose to wear yours for work on business casual days, be sure they are in excellent condition. If you look like you are ready to rake your lawn in them, they are probably too casual for even the most relaxed business environment. Khakis made out of 100% cotton generally do not wear as well as those made of lightweight wool, or a combination of a synthetic fabric (like polyester) with the cotton. If you do choose to wear 100% cotton styles, consider having them dry cleaned if you aren’t disciplined enough to keep them wrinkle-free on your own. Dry cleaning can also give them a longer shelf life. Capris: Capri pants (generally defined as ending mid-calf) are considered a very casual summer dress pant choice and are not the best pant length to wear in most business environments because they tend to scream “take me to the beach, please!” Having said that, a cropped pant (defined as ending just above the ankle) can be okay for work if they are presented professionally. An open toe, business-appropriate shoe can give cropped pants a more professional look than overly casual or overly dressy sandals, especially if they are paired with a well-coordinated business-appropriate top or jacket.

Fashion Q & A: Wardrobe Basics Q: I have recently lost weight and trimmed down two sizes. I need to build a new wardrobe. What are the basics pieces to start with? Can I do this on a reasonable budget? Editor’s Note: This month’s question is being answered by consultant Karen Costa. Karen is available for virtual consulting — a great way to get prompt, specific fashion advice no matter where you live. Follow this link to learn more about how our popular virtual consulting program works. A: Congratulations on your weight loss!!! It must feel wonderful to be down two sizes. The important thing in this economy is to make clothing and accessory purchases that give you maximum flexibility in you wardrobe. The following are some of the basic pieces that I suggest you shop for first. Great pair of black pants (A real wardrobe builder.) Buy two and have one hemmed to flats and one hemmed to heels.     Trouser or boot leg jeans in a dark rinse. Buy two and hem one for flats and one for heels.     White shirt updated with 3/4 sleeves     Twin sweater set in cashmere or a good prima cotton blend. Look for colors like purple, coral and lemongrass.     Sheath dress with short cardigan jacket or safari inspired shirtdress.     Short belted trench coat     Black patent ballet flats     Black heel     Black tote All of the above items can be found in stores and online sites this spring. I especially love finding classic pieces at Talbots, Ann Taylor, Nordstroms and Macys. Check out their websites for ideas and watch for sales! Use accessories to add a pop of color and an element of fun to your basic wardrobe. Look at Target, H&M, JCPenney and Kohl’s for the latest trends at affordable prices. Happy shopping!

Fashion Q & A: Sockless in the Summer? Q: I don’t like to always wear socks with my loafers in the summer. As a senior executive, I know socks need to stay on during business hours. What about the weekends? Can you give me some guidance? A: Here’s the skinny on socks vs. non-socks for men in warm weather from our professional prospective: You are correct about always wearing socks on business days. In our opinion, it is never appropriate to go sockless at work. On weekends (and for off-site work and social functions during the week), you can forgo them with a little prep. First, be sure your feet are super clean and dry. Any moisture can cause bacteria, which causes odors — one of the reasons some men will never forgo socks with any type of loafer. If you do forgo socks with your loafers, be sure to dry your loafers between wearings. To absorb moisture, cedar trees work well as do dryer sheets stuffed in the toes. When you are wearing loafers with shorts, it is best not to wear socks. Sperry Top-Siders (aka boat shoes) are meant to be worn sockless with shorts and look nice with traditional shorts in the summer. For guys who want to avoid the whole socks vs. no socks question with their loafers — we often recommend this style of shoe to be worn with shorts in warm weather if it fits with the client’s personal style. Extra bonus — “top-siders” (also called “dock siders”) are currently very much in style so you should have no problem finding a pair if this idea appeals to you. They are more casual than a traditional loafer and, therefore, naturally complement the more casual look of shorts. Obviously, if you are going to an event that is on the dressy side, any loafer or top-sider you choose to wear with shorts should be in excellent shape. A lot of our male clients ask us what is the best sock or non-sock option with khaki pants and a polo shirt. I personally like to see socks with this type of more conservative pant outfit — I think it is more polished. It’s a preppy look to go without socks when wearing pants and loafers so you risk the possibility that others will perceive you as slightly collegiate (and sometimes, as I hear from time to time when my corporate clients are prepping me to train their sales force, even elitist.) Take these sentiments with a grain of salt and do what is best for you! It is always my goal to present relevant and thorough insights about any topic we are asked about. Finally, the easiest sock color to wear with a light pair of khaki-colored pants and a brown loafer is brown. You want to coordinate socks with your shoes first. Loafers in the brown family (cordovan included) look best with traditional khakis and are more casual than a black pair of loafers. Black loafers coordinate best with black socks and lightweight black pants in the summer months. In my opinion, they are too harsh with khaki-colored pants made of any fabric (aka cotton or lightweight wool.) Good luck! I hope these tips guide you in making good style choices this summer.

Fashion Q & A: Too Much Black and White? Q: Is there such a thing as having too much black and white in a wardrobe and not enough color? Color confuses me so I most often wear black and white, but I don’t want to look dated or boring! A: We have many very stylish clients who build their entire wardrobes with black and white separates. These two neutrals look sharp together, travel well, are easy to find at a variety of price points and make getting dressed a snap. The key to keeping this type of wardrobe fresh and up to date is to add silhouettes and shapes each season that are most in style. For instance, when pants got skinny, our clients in this category added several fresh pairs of “skinny” pants in both black and white. When tees got longer, they followed suit. Also, you don’t want too much black or too much white so combining the two colors (actually neutrals!) does take some thought. A black belt on a white dress, a white shawl over a black dress is the way to add some signature style. All the fashion magazines are actually applauding black and white this spring as a sophisticated fashion choice. We are seeing lots of black and white stripes in the marketplace. Adding a few pieces that sport this pattern might be all you need to do to update for the season sensibly and with style. Finally, if you do want to add a pop of color, red and yellow look great with black and white – even if you add just a scarf or pair of shoes in one of these hues!